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The vehicle in question is a 2009 model with a 4.4-liter V8 engine and has accumulated a mileage of 160,000 kilometers.

The first procedure involves acquiring a meter and using it to assess the voltage of the battery, hence facilitating the identification of any malfunctions or deterioration in either the battery or the alternator. I will get one on the following morning and proceed to conduct a test.
In the meanwhile, I would like to provide a compilation of peculiar occurrences that I am now encountering:

The occurrence of HDC problem and the unavailability of special programs on the dashboard are seen alone when I connect my scanner to get diagnostic codes.
The terrain response codes that I am receiving indicate a potential issue with the wheel speed sensors. However, upon doing tests and analyzing the live readings, it has been determined that all the wheel speed sensors are functioning properly.

The topic of interest is to Error Correction and Detection (ECD) codes.

The vehicle consistently fails to display an illuminated check engine light. The display of these codes is seen just upon connecting the scanner. I am capable of resolving the majority of the issues at hand.
The codes I am referring to lack specificity in my statement. The reason for clearing the codes was because I wanted to resolve the issue. In retrospect, it would have been prudent to have documented them. Indeed, I possess a limited intellectual capacity.
I own the following codes to present:

The U3003-17 code indicates an intermittent state of battery voltage.

The transponder in question, identified as BIB01-87, has an intermittent state.

Additionally, I have observed that the fan in my vehicle tends to operate noisily at first startup when the engine is cold. It has been reported that this symptom may indicate a deficiency in battery voltage.

I want to do an assessment of the battery and alternator at the earliest opportunity tomorrow morning.
Do you have any suggestions or thoughts to contribute to the discussion?
Thank you for your response.

It is recommended to charge the battery for an extended period of time, often overnight, followed by a subsequent disconnection from any power source for a duration of 24 hours.If the voltage measurement falls below the threshold of 12.5, it is considered questionable or subject to scrutiny. If a vehicle's battery is more than four years old, it may be considered questionable. When the battery is reconnected to the engine and the engine is running at a high idle, the expected voltage reading should be about 14.2 volts if the battery is charging. No evidence was found to support the validity of an old wives' tale.

The proposition seems to be favorable. Thank you for your response. I will connect the device to a battery tender and provide an update during the next days of availability.

It is important to bear in mind that when purchasing a battery, one is essentially acquiring a mass of lead. In this regard, opting for the most economical option is advisable. It is worth noting that in battery manufacturing facilities, the plates used in batteries stay consistent, with variations occurring mainly in terms of the casing and labeling. Consequently, there is no need for an Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery. Opt for cost-effective options and ensure to save the receipt.

I refrained from charging the battery and afterwards disconnected it.
Nevertheless, I possess these measurements subsequent to a 14-hour period during which the vehicle was turned off and remained stationary in my driveway.

The voltage measured after a period of 14 hours of inactivity with the engine turned off was found to be 12.36 volts.

The voltage measured while the vehicle is in idle state without any accessories functioning is 13.6 volts.

The voltage measured at 2000 RPM without any accessories operating is 13.6 volts.

In addition,
I engaged in a vehicular excursion of a duration of 25 minutes, including both highway and urban driving environments. The use and removal of accessories.
The voltage did not exceed 13.7.

The potential cause of the problem might be the alternator, since it often generates a voltage above 14.6 volts. The battery is capable of sustaining a voltage of 12.6 volts for a limited duration in the absence of vehicle operation. When the quantity is significantly reduced, such as in your case, several issues begin to arise.

The battery being used is a Varta 850cca 95ah AGM battery, which is tasked with initiating the cranking process of a 3.0 TDV6 engine in sub-zero temperature conditions. Therefore, I will seize every opportunity that presents myself. Moreover, they have a tendency to exhibit quicker charging capabilities and are capable of discharging at lower rates. I highly endorse the use of electric heavy trucks. Ultimately, prioritize what aligns with your own needs and financial constraints. The potential impact of the alternator is expected to cause discomfort or pain.

I am inclined to concur that the alternator is the likely culprit.
The primary factor is that I have had the vehicle for a limited duration of a few months, and the preceding owner has affirmed that the battery was recently updated inside the past year. The individual provided me with the receipt for the battery, however regrettably, I am now unable to locate it. The document serves as evidence of a recent purchase.

Let us posit that the issue at hand pertains to the alternator.
Given that the new battery has been receiving charge through a defective alternator, does this imply that the battery need to be substituted? Alternatively, one may start the diagnostic process by installing the new alternator and afterwards monitoring the battery's voltage.

Given that the battery in question is a recent one, it would be advisable to start the troubleshooting process by inspecting the alternator and monitoring the battery's performance. If the voltage is not reaching or maintaining the appropriate level, then one may ascertain the solution. Currently, I am inclined to posit that the battery may possess the potential for restoration.

The proposed idea seems to be favorable. Let us start our discussion with the alternator.
I own many bicycles that I consistently connect to a battery tender during periods of non-utilization.
Is the practice of voltage sensitivity common among those who own rovers? For me, it would be rather straightforward to do on a regular basis. The pigtail connection might be discreetly routed along the upper section where the hood and windshield converge.
Are there any reasons to refrain from engaging in this activity?