JustCarsForum - Your Ultimate Automotive Community

The EML (Engine Management Light) illuminated many days subsequent to the MOT (Ministry of Transport) inspection on my spouse's 2017 B180D vehicle equipped with the OM607 Engine. Upon connecting Xentry, a diagnostic tool, I obtained a current and stored fault code denoted as P009564. The intake air temperature sensor 2, specifically located in cylinder bank 1, is experiencing an electrical malfunction. An improbable signal has been detected.

I proceeded to place an order for a Pressure and Temperature sensor (B4/32) with the Bosch component number 0281006108, which I was informed is the equivalent of the MB A 607 905 34 00. Upon my visit to the fitting today, I saw a little physical variation in its appearance. However, I proceeded with the installation since it had an identical 4-wire connection. Upon activating the engine, it was seen that the Engine Malfunction Indicator Light (EML) remained on, leading to the assumption that the code needed to be reset. Upon re-establishing the connection with Xentry, it has been seen that the error code P009564 remains unchanged, both in its current and saved states. Upon observation of the factual data pertaining to the intake air temperature, it was seen that the recorded value was around 20 degrees Celsius, a reasonably accurate representation.

I am experiencing some cognitive dissonance.
Has anybody seen this same problem on this engine before, and if so, what was the underlying cause?
I find myself perplexed by the mention of the "Intake air temperature sensor 2" - Have I recently replaced "sensor 1" and is there an additional "sensor 2" present that I have not yet identified?
Is it possible that I have obtained the incorrect component?
Is it possible that the item I received, which was purchased from Amazon and claimed to be a genuine Bosch product, is defective? Given the absence of any faults pertaining to the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor, it may be inferred that at least half of the sensor is functioning properly.

We appreciate your readership and welcome any contributions or insights you may have.

I have dedicated a considerable amount of time examining the WIS (Workshop Information System) and EPC (Electronic Parts Catalog) databases, and it seems that the only temperature sensor present on the air intake system is the one referred to as the "charge air temperature sensor." This information can be found on the WIS page titled "AR09.41-P-2002ORA Remove/install charge air temperature sensor."

In the absence of other options, my further course of action would include returning the Amazon sensor and procuring an MB sensor, afterwards assessing the progress made. I am inquiring as to whether the 20C air intake temperature that I saw in Xentry is a presumed estimate made in the absence of sensor data.

The temperature sensors are sequentially labeled, starting at the air intake leading to the engine and continuing through the exhaust system from the engine to the tailpipe.
Inlet air 1 is typically directed towards the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF), whereas inlet air 2 is positioned afterwards in the airflow pathway. If the TMAP is really the next step, then that will mark the conclusion.

In cases of uncertainty, it is recommended to disconnect the sensor, which should result in an error message such as "inlet air temp 2 open circuit" or "short circuit to power," provided that the appropriate sensor has been disconnected. If an alternative index is obtained, it indicates an incorrect selection.

It is quite likely that Xentry provides the unprocessed voltage readings for the temperature sensors. They provide significant use in facilitating comprehension of the prevailing circumstances. It is advisable to prioritize the inspection of wiring before proceeding with the replacement of the sensor.

A temperature sensor may be described as a variable resistor, which is quite simple to manufacture and even low-cost options available on online marketplaces are unlikely to have significant inaccuracies.

Thank you for your response. Initially, a thorough examination of the physical wiring was conducted, revealing no apparent indications of deterioration or corrosion. I want to do more investigation on the matter and also explore the outcomes of disconnecting the sensor. Additionally, I will conduct an examination of the xentry system to explore and analyze available live data, such as voltages and other relevant information.

This specific sensor is positioned underneath the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve, located on the upper section of the engine. There are two sensors, namely sensor 400 and sensor 420. It is typically sensor 420 that experiences failure, since the component number of sensor 420 has been superseded.

Thank you for your response. Upon examining the two sensors in the Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC), it is evident that they possess distinct component numbers for my specific Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Notably, the sensor labeled as 400 is only identified as a pressure sensor in the provided documentation.
Today, I am pleased to inform you that I have successfully replaced the inexpensive Amazon component, specifically the one labeled as 420 beneath the EGR, with a replacement obtained from my nearby Mercedes-Benz dealership. It is worth noting that the dealership part was much more expensive, costing over four times the price of the Amazon alternative.
There are no rewards for correctly inferring that the fault code was only stored and then resolved upon being cleared.

It is noteworthy that the Amazon and MB components exhibit complete visual similarity while differing from the original component. The only distinction is in the efficacy of one approach compared to the other.
The Amazon component is now through the returns procedure in order to get a refund.

The lesson that has been learned, or rather, recalled from previous experiences, is that there are instances when I lack the financial means to purchase inexpensive components.

It is possible that the task may need to be repeated several times, resulting in a potential loss of time or an increased financial burden if one opts to delegate the task to a third party.
The duration of the task may be significantly extended, and other expenses may arise, such as the need to replace the EGR gaskets, since the removal of the bolt necessitates accessing this component.

As often said, caveat emptor...

It is very plausible to substitute the existing sensor with an authentic Bosch sensor, given its status as an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) component. Additionally, it is worth noting that the replacement of the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) gasket is unnecessary, since it is composed of a metallic material that may be reused.

Indeed, I concur with your assertion. In retrospect, I erroneously believed that I had successfully accomplished the task at hand. However, considering the very low cost associated with it, I am now skeptical about its authenticity. I just wanted to resolve the matter quickly, and the most expeditious course of action for me was to visit the authorized dealership. Regarding the gasket, I adhered to the directions provided in the Workshop Information System (WIS). However, it should be acknowledged that I did not make any modifications for the second attempt, since the engine had only been operational for a little period of time.