Greetings, everyone.
Following the installation of the new Bosch starting motor, I am pleased to report that it works flawlessly.
I am experiencing a little issue with the clutch and flywheel, as there is a noticeable banging sound. This began in the fourth quarter of 2023, although it is still being used.
Return to my previous vehicle In about 2019, I had a problem with my BMW 320 e90, which had around 125,000 miles on it. The issue was that I couldn't start the vehicle due to my assumption.At that moment, the start-stop function was unable to activate due to a malfunction in the clutch mechanism. Consequently, I had to replace the dual mass flywheel, clutch system, and maybe the slave cylinder. The issue was resolved, and I successfully sold the vehicle for 159,000 km.
This BMW 120d e82 2010, I used to initiate the starting process by fully or almost fully depressing the clutch pedal. I have noticed a pattern where I need to push the correct button all the way to the end in order to start the process.
Another important detail to note about the clutch pedal is that I sometimes have difficulties in fully disengaging it, necessitating the use of my feet to manually raise the pedal back up.
What specific potential difficulties are we discussing? Does a switch exist somewhere beneath the clutch for the stop start function?
Is it possible for me to address and resolve the problem of depression without incurring significant expenses?
Will this whole job include replacing the clutch and flywheel? Is the slave cylinder the only component required, or are there any other parts needed?
The current value of my automobile is 129,000 and I am interested in purchasing a new car in the near future.
I really dislike the manner The only method to start the car's engine is by engaging the clutch pedal.
The next problem I am experiencing with my BMW 120d e82 m sport (2010) is related to the clutch pedal.
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Initially, I would focus on the master cylinder as it may potentially account for both faults. The master cylinder not only pressurises the system to engage the clutch, but it also houses the reed switch responsible for supplying power to the CAS module.
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Whenever I bring my vehicle to the mechanic, they always inform me that I will need a replacement clutch or flywheel.
Is the start-stop function crucial for starting the car? Based on your statement, I assume that the reed switch or cas module is related to the start-stop feature. Replacing the master cylinder should resolve any difficulties. Currently, I am capable of doing any task inside the vehicle or under the hood. However, any task that necessitates the use of a jack may need to be taken to the garage. Due to the incline of my driveway, I no longer lift the vehicle alone.Furthermore, I lack practical knowledge in transmissions unless this is a straightforward do-it-yourself task.
Is the start-stop function crucial for starting the car? Based on your statement, I assume that the reed switch or cas module is related to the start-stop feature. Replacing the master cylinder should resolve any difficulties. Currently, I am capable of doing any task inside the vehicle or under the hood. However, any task that necessitates the use of a jack may need to be taken to the garage. Due to the incline of my driveway, I no longer lift the vehicle alone.Furthermore, I lack practical knowledge in transmissions unless this is a straightforward do-it-yourself task.
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Could replacing the master cylinder potentially solve both the problem of the engine not starting when the start button is pressed and the issue of difficulty in depressing the button?
I am considering attempting to replace the master cylinder on my own. However, if the slave cylinder also has to be replaced, I will have to take it to a professional garage.
I am struggling to locate sufficient YouTube videos that provide detailed instructions on how to replace the master cylinder and perform the bleeding process for a BMW 1 series.
I am considering attempting to replace the master cylinder on my own. However, if the slave cylinder also has to be replaced, I will have to take it to a professional garage.
I am struggling to locate sufficient YouTube videos that provide detailed instructions on how to replace the master cylinder and perform the bleeding process for a BMW 1 series.
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The reed switch must detect the clutch pedal being depressed in order to transmit a signal to the CAS module, which in turn activates the terminal for the starting motor solenoid.
If the pedal is malfunctioning, it is possible that the internal components of the master cylinder are stuck, causing the reed switch to not function properly and hence not indicating that the clutch is depressed.
The component is located inside the automobile and is connected to the clutch pedal. It is secured by two M6 nuts and bolts, and the rod is a pin with a spring clip. A pipe is a kind of spring clip. It is important to maintain an ample supply of absorbent material, since the pipe will release fluid when it is removed.
If the pedal is malfunctioning, it is possible that the internal components of the master cylinder are stuck, causing the reed switch to not function properly and hence not indicating that the clutch is depressed.
The component is located inside the automobile and is connected to the clutch pedal. It is secured by two M6 nuts and bolts, and the rod is a pin with a spring clip. A pipe is a kind of spring clip. It is important to maintain an ample supply of absorbent material, since the pipe will release fluid when it is removed.
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Can a newbie handle this as a do-it-yourself project?
I have heard that it is possible to apply a clamp to a hose located under the bonnet in order to prevent the flow of fluid while performing a replacement.
I have not yet discovered any high-quality movies that are specifically tailored to my automobile or comparable to the 1 series.
I lack sufficient expertise in determining whether bleeding is necessary following a procedure.
If I make a mistake, I will be unable to engage the clutch and therefore unable to start the vehicle in order to move it to the garage.
I made many phone calls to get bids earlier.
The cost for replacing the master cylinder, including materials and work, varies from £350 to £402 based on first observations. Based on my own diagnosis and research, I have identified the most likely cause using online sources.
One of the locations (402) would include the fee for diagnosing the issue.
I have heard that it is possible to apply a clamp to a hose located under the bonnet in order to prevent the flow of fluid while performing a replacement.
I have not yet discovered any high-quality movies that are specifically tailored to my automobile or comparable to the 1 series.
I lack sufficient expertise in determining whether bleeding is necessary following a procedure.
If I make a mistake, I will be unable to engage the clutch and therefore unable to start the vehicle in order to move it to the garage.
I made many phone calls to get bids earlier.
The cost for replacing the master cylinder, including materials and work, varies from £350 to £402 based on first observations. Based on my own diagnosis and research, I have identified the most likely cause using online sources.
One of the locations (402) would include the fee for diagnosing the issue.
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It is a simple task for someone skilled with a wrench, but a price of £400 or more sounds too high to me.
From my recollection, when I changed the component, it cost less than £100 and the process of swapping and bleeding took a maximum of one hour.
From my recollection, when I changed the component, it cost less than £100 and the process of swapping and bleeding took a maximum of one hour.
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The concern I have is that if I make a mistake, I will be unable to initiate it and subsequently unable to have it towed.From home to the garage.
Currently, I am actively seeking a comprehensive instructional resource that provides a detailed sequence of steps accompanied by textual explanations and visual aids, such as photographs or videos.
This evening, I successfully manoeuvred myself behind the footwell...there are. The tray is secured by hex screws and a clip. By undoing the hex screws, I was able to access the tray and use a torch to inspect the master cylinder. There is little space available to work with in that area. That is why I wanted to assess the level of difficulty.
I will need to locate step-by-step instructional material in order to assess my level of confidence.
Furthermore, I saw a little metal contact plate located at the back of the footwell behind the clutch pedal. I am curious whether this plate has any relevance to the problem at hand, or if it is only related to the master cylinder?
Does the plate serve the purpose of preventing additional depression of the pedal, as I understand it?
Currently, I am actively seeking a comprehensive instructional resource that provides a detailed sequence of steps accompanied by textual explanations and visual aids, such as photographs or videos.
This evening, I successfully manoeuvred myself behind the footwell...there are. The tray is secured by hex screws and a clip. By undoing the hex screws, I was able to access the tray and use a torch to inspect the master cylinder. There is little space available to work with in that area. That is why I wanted to assess the level of difficulty.
I will need to locate step-by-step instructional material in order to assess my level of confidence.
Furthermore, I saw a little metal contact plate located at the back of the footwell behind the clutch pedal. I am curious whether this plate has any relevance to the problem at hand, or if it is only related to the master cylinder?
Does the plate serve the purpose of preventing additional depression of the pedal, as I understand it?
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- Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2023 7:45 pm
Operate it when the clutch is down. The other person pushed it.