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Greetings,

I am experiencing difficulties with starting my 2008 V8 automatic gearbox vehicle. There are no CEL issues to address, save for the Hill Hold assist malfunction that occurs before to starting. I was informed that it was considered typical.

The issue lies in the fact that the startup process is very time-consuming. Occasionally, it has a failure to begin and necessitates shutting it down and attempting to start it again, after which it successfully commences. The problem arises only during first starts when the engine is cold or when the vehicle has remained idle for a duration of 30 minutes or more.

This is my completed work:


1. Wait until the fuel pump has fully primed when the door opens.
2. Rotate the key to the "on" position and allow a little period of time to elapse before attempting to initiate the starting process.
3. Installed new components, including the ignition cylinder and angle sensor, in the steering wheel.
4. Substituted the brake light switch with a new component. I exert maximum pressure on the brake pedal.
The spark plugs and coil packs were changed more than a year ago during the walnut blasting procedure.
6. The gasoline filter was recently replaced prior to #5.
7. The dealership from where I purchased the automobile changed the starter around 9 months after the purchase. They informed me that it is common for the car to take a while to start, but the starting time has increased since I first owned it.
The battery was changed in 2022. I am unable to remember the specific month. Additionally, it consistently maintains a charge level above 12 on the dial.


Do you have any more recommendations? I have exhausted all possible hypotheses on its nature.


I possess VCDS.

Abnormal. A potential but very minor problem might be that the vehicle is experiencing a loss of power and resetting the learned information for wheel speed and steering angle. However, this issue would likely affect more than just the HHA (Hill Hold Assist) feature. The activation would cause the Anti-lock Braking System (ABS), Traction Control System (TCS), and several other components to be engaged.

Does the engine turn over but fail to ignite? Does it not attempt to start at all? Does the engine exhibit intermittent cranking and coughing/spluttering before abruptly ceasing operation?

That is not the gasoline pump, but rather the gearbox hydraulic pump.

Are you receiving a dashboard message instructing you to engage the brake pedal before starting? If such is the case, it should be clear and easy to understand. It is worth mentioning that if you press the brake pedal before attempting to start the vehicle, it becomes challenging to push the pedal down enough for it to be recognised.

Once again, may I inquire as to the rationale for this?

Perform an automated scan and thereafter publish the results.

Your whole post is partially suggesting a malfunction where the engine does not start, while the other part is suggesting a malfunction where the engine does not crank. There is an excessive amount of uncertainty and little clarity. Please provide a precise description of the situation.

Abnormal. The most minimal concern may be the automobile experiencing a loss of power and resetting the learnt information about wheel speed and steering angle. However, this would cause more than just the HHA system to be affected. The activation would trigger the Anti-lock Braking System (ABS), Traction Control System (TCS), and several other components.

There are no problems with the ABS, TCS, or any other sensors.


Is the engine turning over but failing to ignite? Does it not attempt to start at all? Does the engine exhibit initial cranking and intermittent coughing or sputtering before coming to a complete stop?

The engine turns over but fails to start. There is no occurrence of coughing or sputtering when the engine ultimately starts.


That component is not the gasoline pump, but rather the gearbox hydraulic pump.
Indeed, your statement is accurate.


Is there a specific rationale for this?
Correction: The component in question was the ignition lock casing. The reason for the alteration was due to a potential issue with the lock switch, which might have had a negative impact on the ignition system. The expenditure was minor and the steering angle sensor, which initially had a malfunction, was easily replaced and calibrated, resolving the issue.

Are you seeing a prompt on the dashboard instructing you to apply the brake pedal before starting? If such is the case, it should be clear and easy to understand. It should be noted that if you press the brake pedal before attempting to start the vehicle, it becomes difficult to fully depress the pedal to the point where it is recognised.

Affirmative, that message does really manifest. I do not apply force to the brake pedal in a repetitive manner, but rather exert pressure on it.


Once again, is there a specific rationale for this?
Could you please clarify your statement? The dealer replaced it in response to my report of experiencing difficulties with starting.


Perform an automated scan and then share the results.

There are no issues, with the exception of SiriusXM.

Your whole message is suggesting a partially implied issue of a malfunctioning crankshaft, with a state of no starting, while the other half is suggesting a condition of no cranking. There is an excessive amount of uncertainty and a deficiency in providing clear explanations. Please provide a precise description of the situation.
I often used the word "start" at the beginning of each sentence while describing my actions.

Upon careful consideration, it is possible that the issue lies in a faulty ground connection on the starter. That would be consistent with everything said before.
In order to drain oil from the dry sump, it is necessary to remove the starting ground. Could it be possible that someone neglected to clean it before to reattaching it? Since then, the parts cannon has been used extensively without properly identifying the underlying problem.

Maybe. Additional information is required since the nature of the problem you are now encountering is not sufficiently apparent.

Understood. I can do a ground inspection to see whether it would resolve the issue.


I am unable to comprehend what aspect of the situation is causing confusion over the prolonged duration it takes for the vehicle to start once the ignition has been activated. Occasionally, despite engaging the ignition for a certain duration, the vehicle fails to start. I must rotate the key to the off position, then make another effort to start, and ultimately the engine starts. There are no outstanding or pre-programmed malfunctions, with the exception of SiriuxXM (Digital Radio), which I do not use. I have a Hill Hold Assist problem every time I try to crank and start the engine. If it starts, it will ultimately vanish. There is no blame for it, nor is there any wrong with ABS while scanning. The list provided in my first post encompasses all the actions I have undertaken so far in an attempt to resolve the problem.

Due to its vague nature, the issue of not beginning or taking a long time to start remains unclear.

There are two primary instances in which the engine fails to start: when it cranks or spins but does not ignite. Another issue is that it does not start at all. It is crucial to differentiate between the two since they will have very distinct reasons. There is no need to remove all the spark plugs, for instance, if the engine is not even turning over. You will perceive the sound of the engine starting. It is quite evident.

I presume that it is experiencing a failure to start the engine. When the ignition is turned while the brake pedal is pressed, the dashboard becomes completely empty and no warning about the brake pedal is shown. I presume that you or someone else has changed the starter, ignition barrel, battery, and brake pedal switch with the misguided expectation that these replacements will resolve the issue of the vehicle not starting. I am supposing that the steering wheel angle sensor was needlessly replaced, given it accurately detects a problem when the vehicle is switched on from a fully off state. Nevertheless, this warning will automatically disappear after driving a few hundred yards (some individuals have reported that turning the steering wheel from lock to lock resolves the issue). It is quite probable that the steering angle sensor is being reset due to a voltage drop during cranking, causing the ECU to lose power. The automobile is being reset and restarted.

Is my understanding correct up to this point?

Therefore, it is very natural to see a decrease in voltage throughout the process of cranking. Individuals with experience in voltage measurement will see a decrease in voltage to about 9 or 10 volts, even in a fully functional automobile. However, exceeding this threshold results in an inadequate voltage supply to sustain the power of the ECU's. Possible causes for this issue include a depleted battery, a weak connection, incorrect grounding, or a starter that is stuck or seized. Merely seeing a voltage of 12 volts between the battery terminals, or even a voltage of 12 volts from the front trunk to the rearmost part of the automobile, does not always indicate that everything is functioning properly. Even a little level of resistance may not provide any noticeable influence while not under a load (e.g., a few amps with the ignition on). However, it will have a significant effect when drawing a substantial current, such as the 100-200 amps that the starter will demand.

The difficulty in cranking the engine when it is cold is due to two factors: a) the engine itself being cold and hence more difficult to start, and b) the battery having been idle. Starting a heated engine immediately after parking the automobile can exacerbate the issue of a weak battery or a poor connection.

Ensure that the battery is providing a minimum voltage of 12.5v after being idle. It is necessary to inspect the battery terminals and perform maintenance on them. If it does not provide assistance, I would suggest that the issue is with the beginning ground. If you own a multimeter, I suggest locating a 12v power source situated behind the seats, since there are several areas in this vicinity that maintain a constant electrical supply. Proceed by monitoring the voltage while engaging the engine's starter. I have seen voltage levels as low as 7 volts, which are still enough to provide power for the auto systems. However, if the voltage drops below this threshold, all systems will reset. However, it is preferable to get a minimum of 10 volts during the process of cranking. If not, continue to investigate the electrical problem until you identify the source of the vulnerability.

Although I am willing to assist, the available information is limited. You could provide clearer and more explicit information on the symptoms. Alternatively, please provide a VCDS autoscan. If the vehicle fails to start, it is likely that there are stored faults related to ECM communication failures and/or terminal 15 voltage warnings.

If no error code is produced, the only possible causes are either the ignition coils or the speed sensor failing to identify a spinning engine.

I effortlessly initiate the ignition of my 2007 V8 engine.