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Is it accurate to assert that the R56 Minis use oil, with an expectation of around 1 litre every 1,000 miles?

I recall seeing a sticker that said, "I drink Oil," and I now suspect that they really do so, LOL

Is it accurate to assert that the R56 Minis use oil, with an expectation of around 1 litre every 1,000 miles?

I recall seeing a sticker that said, "I drink Oil," and I now suspect that they really do so, amusingly enough.

We have reconstructed ours with high-quality components, and it no longer consumes any oil between changes. Alternatively, if it does occur, the effect is so negligible that it is imperceptible on the stick.

For those of us in the inexpensive seats who are unfamiliar with the concept... Could you kindly provide further information? Which section is that? Exhaust manifold? The apertures are coated with oil residue. Is it the valve you referenced? Apologies for the enquiries.

BMW condition One litre allows for 800 to 1000 miles. After refreshing, they use little oil. A Cooper I serviced last year has completed 4500 miles of mixed driving and reported nil oil consumption since the refresh. The issue arises from BMW's factory rings, which utilise metal nitride flexible oil rings that let some oil to bypass.

I am now undergoing a re-ring on my vehicle and, having easily accessible photographs, I decided to publish them.

A shot of the OEM Oil Control Ring is attached. illustrates why they are classified as "low friction" rings. This ring is designed to suit the lower location of the piston. The design demonstrates that an outer spring encircles the oil control segment, maintaining its position through compression. As the spring contracts the oil ring, minimal outward force is exerted on the cylinder walls, thereby reducing the scraping action necessary to return oil to the crankcase and retain it effectively.

An expander ring segment, the undulating component that lubricates the cylinder wall, is positioned between two slender oil control rings that effectively remove oil from the cylinder wall and inhibit blow-by into the combustion chamber.

The second, expanding type oil rings effectively minimise oil bypass into the combustion chamber by ensuring tighter contact with the cylinder wall.

My vehicle used around 1 litre of fuel every 750 km prior to its disassembly.

The positive aspect is that with the OEM "low friction" rings, if you choose for a motor "refresh," the cylinder walls will likely exhibit little wear. My vehicle had 205,000 km at disassembly, and all measurements were within specifications, necessitating just the honing of the cylinder and the installation of a new set of standard-sized rings. Although individual experiences may differ, there is a substantial likelihood that you will simply need to do a re-ring without the need of boring the cylinders or installing new pistons.
All components downstream of the combustion chamber will acquire sooty, black carbon oil deposits, ultimately leading to pitted exhaust valve seats and a probable loss of compression over time.

Hope to elucidate the reason of the factory oil ring and the problem of elevated oil consumption.

Indeed, that has been my endeavour for over a decade, after the reconstruction of the first model and contemplating the need for superior rings than those available at the time, which were a set of TU engine rings.

Thank you, everyone; this is not only a brief weekend task.

The advantage is that it will consistently get new oil.

Would a more viscous oil be beneficial at this time? I am now using 5w30 Mannol 7908; should I continue with this choice?

Thank you.

Requires around four days to do a thorough recharge.