The front drain of the sunroof on the driver's side is obstructed, resulting in the accumulation of water in the footwell and screen pillar area. I have conducted preliminary experimentation including the use of nylon fishtape, equipped with a pointed brass end, as well as a steel coiled drain cleaner. Despite applying a significant amount of effort and using various techniques such as twisting, tugging, and shoving, no discernible outcome was achieved. The obstruction seems to be immovable and is located towards the bottom portion of the screen pillar, as inferred from the disparity in tape insertion depth (which is about two to three times greater on the unobstructed passenger side).
Additionally, I have retracted the wheel arch trims and have not seen any obstructions impeding the drainage system. It is worth noting that the engine bay drains are functioning properly.
Additionally, attempts have been made to use suction and blowing techniques using a hoover cleaner. I have not yet tested my air compressor, since I am concerned about the potential risk of an internal hose blowout or rupture.
I am now devoid of any other strategies to pursue. One potential course of action would include the use of drain cleaner; however, concerns arise over the potential deleterious effects it may have on steel, aluminium, plastic, and paint surfaces.
The obstructed drain of the sunroof of the CL500 C216/W221 model is causing an issue.
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Samantha_Jones83
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The tool used for the purpose is Electricians Fishing Tape, which is often utilised for the task of pulling wires through conduits. Additionally, a coat hanger that has been straightened out has also been utilised.
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godisgreat
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I have used plastic-coated curtain wire or, in the event of its ineffectiveness, copper-coated welding rod. It is important to use caution since the drain tube is susceptible to injury. Are you certain that the blockage is not caused by the bulkhead drain located at the bonnet hinge? In order to resolve this issue, I used a welding rod to ascend from the rear of the arch liner.
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almamater78
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It is advised to refrain from using coercive measures. In the event that the rubber drain hose is dislodged from the door, undesirable consequences may arise.
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GoodBoyCar
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Thank you for your response. Despite my efforts to use a wire spring type drain cleaner in conjunction with a drill, I have been unable in achieving any movement. I am developing a suspicion that a drain rod may have been misplaced by a former garage. At now, I am encountering difficulty in manoeuvring the rod in the other direction, namely upwards, due to my inability to ascertain the location of the exit. The location in question is situated posterior to the front wheel arch trim. By disengaging the two plastic fasteners, I have successfully retracted the trim, so creating an opening. Subsequently, I have inserted a substantial length of fishtape through the operative side, ensuring a enough amount to emerge at a certain point. However, despite these efforts, the fishtape remains imperceptible to the naked eye. I will make another attempt during the evening hours using a torch as a source of illumination.
The A pillar trim and airbag have been successfully removed, revealing no visible indication of the pipe's location. It is likely situated inside the pillar. I have not yet removed the roof trim.
In this context, it is prudent to consider the implementation of three contingency plans as a means of mitigating any risks or uncertainties.
1) It is advisable to consistently position the driver's side of the vehicle on a gentle incline to provide adequate drainage from the operational orifice.
2) Implement a method to effectively seal the sunroof while maintaining aesthetic appeal, avoiding the use of unsightly materials like as tape, and ensuring that the seal may be removed without causing any harm to the paint or glass roof edge trim.
3) It is recommended to create a novel aperture for drainage purposes and thereafter insert a conduit along the interior side of the A pillar. This conduit may be directed towards either the windscreen drain, including a reed valve, or alternatively, it can be routed back into the wing hollow, likewise equipped with a reed valve.
The A pillar trim and airbag have been successfully removed, revealing no visible indication of the pipe's location. It is likely situated inside the pillar. I have not yet removed the roof trim.
In this context, it is prudent to consider the implementation of three contingency plans as a means of mitigating any risks or uncertainties.
1) It is advisable to consistently position the driver's side of the vehicle on a gentle incline to provide adequate drainage from the operational orifice.
2) Implement a method to effectively seal the sunroof while maintaining aesthetic appeal, avoiding the use of unsightly materials like as tape, and ensuring that the seal may be removed without causing any harm to the paint or glass roof edge trim.
3) It is recommended to create a novel aperture for drainage purposes and thereafter insert a conduit along the interior side of the A pillar. This conduit may be directed towards either the windscreen drain, including a reed valve, or alternatively, it can be routed back into the wing hollow, likewise equipped with a reed valve.
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generic_user2
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I used one of these devices, which effectively fulfilled its intended purpose. Additionally, I introduced water into the drain as a lubricating agent to prevent the detachment of the hose.
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GoodBoyCar
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I appreciate the guidance provided. Based on my analysis, it seems that I have successfully resolved the issue at hand. The whole passage of the fish tape through the driver's side remains elusive, but there is evidence of water drainage.
In order to provide a point of reference for future use, I would want to outline the actions that I undertook.
I disengaged the two plastic fasteners located at the lower section of the plastic wheel arch liner, as well as three plastic nuts equipped with integrated washers from the arch, in order to facilitate the retraction of the arch.
The automobile was elevated onto ramps while using the high suspension setting. I disassembled two metallic self-tapping screws and one plastic nut, which are analogous to the wheel arch nuts, from the horizontal flap situated behind the wheel arch. This flap thereafter pivots downward and forward, so providing restricted access to the internal components of the wing, on the condition that the wheels be rotated completely. Subsequently, I was able to identify the location from where water was being discharged on the operative side. The object in question is a cylindrical rubber tube with an outside diameter of 15mm. It is positioned in the front wing, terminating at a somewhat elevated location around 6 inches from the top of the wing. The tube is oriented in a forward direction and is contained inside a designated compartment. There seemed to be no visible entry from the engine compartment. The sub panel inside the wing has a substantial oval aperture, allowing for limited manual access to the enclosed tube. The rubber joker valve, which is purportedly located at the end of the tube, was absent on the operative passenger side. The fish tape was inserted completely and its length was measured from the sunroof drain hole to the end of the hose, resulting in a measurement of 130cm.
The same methodology is used to the obstructed side. The joker valve located at the terminus of the hose was removed, revealing a substantial accumulation of malleable sediment. The object under consideration has significant dimensions, with an outside diameter of 20 millimetres. The fish tape was successfully lowered from the sunroof to a depth of 84cm and raised to a height of 38cm. Assuming equal lengths of run on both sides, it can be seen that there is a region which the object cannot traverse, measuring around 8 centimetres. Currently, the water is draining; however, I have not yet had the opportunity to compare it with the functioning side. Upon reflection, it is deemed advantageous to prioritise the act of extracting the joker valve as a first measure. Furthermore, I have not made a replacement for it. Even after cleaning, the seal is not complete, indicating that it does not contribute much to preventing air from being driven up the tube while travelling at high speeds. The presence of the cap may serve the purpose of preventing water ingress into the tube, particularly in the event of the vehicle submerging in a body of water. It is quite difficult to apply an upward force using a rod - the removal of both the wheel and arch liner would likely be necessary to achieve any degree of success in this endeavour.
Curiously, there seems to be an internal ridge inside the hose, which I could perceive in a longitudinal manner.
It is necessary to position the vehicle on a surface that is more even in order to assess the drainage rates on both sides.
In order to provide a point of reference for future use, I would want to outline the actions that I undertook.
I disengaged the two plastic fasteners located at the lower section of the plastic wheel arch liner, as well as three plastic nuts equipped with integrated washers from the arch, in order to facilitate the retraction of the arch.
The automobile was elevated onto ramps while using the high suspension setting. I disassembled two metallic self-tapping screws and one plastic nut, which are analogous to the wheel arch nuts, from the horizontal flap situated behind the wheel arch. This flap thereafter pivots downward and forward, so providing restricted access to the internal components of the wing, on the condition that the wheels be rotated completely. Subsequently, I was able to identify the location from where water was being discharged on the operative side. The object in question is a cylindrical rubber tube with an outside diameter of 15mm. It is positioned in the front wing, terminating at a somewhat elevated location around 6 inches from the top of the wing. The tube is oriented in a forward direction and is contained inside a designated compartment. There seemed to be no visible entry from the engine compartment. The sub panel inside the wing has a substantial oval aperture, allowing for limited manual access to the enclosed tube. The rubber joker valve, which is purportedly located at the end of the tube, was absent on the operative passenger side. The fish tape was inserted completely and its length was measured from the sunroof drain hole to the end of the hose, resulting in a measurement of 130cm.
The same methodology is used to the obstructed side. The joker valve located at the terminus of the hose was removed, revealing a substantial accumulation of malleable sediment. The object under consideration has significant dimensions, with an outside diameter of 20 millimetres. The fish tape was successfully lowered from the sunroof to a depth of 84cm and raised to a height of 38cm. Assuming equal lengths of run on both sides, it can be seen that there is a region which the object cannot traverse, measuring around 8 centimetres. Currently, the water is draining; however, I have not yet had the opportunity to compare it with the functioning side. Upon reflection, it is deemed advantageous to prioritise the act of extracting the joker valve as a first measure. Furthermore, I have not made a replacement for it. Even after cleaning, the seal is not complete, indicating that it does not contribute much to preventing air from being driven up the tube while travelling at high speeds. The presence of the cap may serve the purpose of preventing water ingress into the tube, particularly in the event of the vehicle submerging in a body of water. It is quite difficult to apply an upward force using a rod - the removal of both the wheel and arch liner would likely be necessary to achieve any degree of success in this endeavour.
Curiously, there seems to be an internal ridge inside the hose, which I could perceive in a longitudinal manner.
It is necessary to position the vehicle on a surface that is more even in order to assess the drainage rates on both sides.
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GoodBoyCar
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Upon reflection, it was determined that the act of removing the bottom horizontal flaps was only required in order to identify the location from where the drain emerged. If one had the knowledge of the appropriate location to access, it is possible to remove, cleanse, and substitute the joker valve without the need of elevating the vehicle and accessing it from underneath.