Mot failure! Rear coil spring upper components...
-
LostintheSea
- Moderator
- Posts: 112
- Joined: Tue Mar 10, 2020 7:30 pm
Degraded on both sides. Has anyone encountered this problem, and is it resolvable? I have not captured any photographs or conducted an inspection yet, but it appears that the mk6 lacks a rear subframe...
-
inevitable99
- Moderator
- Posts: 118
- Joined: Fri Apr 19, 2019 8:40 pm
Acquire upper spring mounts from a different vehicle and have them welded in place? Alter certain upper mounts of the front suspension that are secured through the bodywork, provided the adjacent metal can withstand the applied forces.
-
ford_fiesta98
- Senior
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Mon Apr 01, 2019 8:45 pm
I regret to learn of that! Indeed, the springs are independent, while the mounts are integrated into the chassis. It's unfortunate that it wasn't the lower ones, as that would have allowed for a second-hand replacement axle.
I conducted a brief inquiry and discovered some brackets available for purchase that can subsequently be welded to the vehicle: https://ebay.io/m/KJ4fvG I cannot ascertain whether these specific items are indeed suitable for your vehicle, but it is evident that such products are available; you are not the first to encounter this issue! That connection claims to be rust-resistant, but it may be prudent to apply an appropriate sealant afterward.
Thus, one can only hope it is not yet time for it to decline?
P.S: When undertaking a DIY project, it is advisable to detach both sides simultaneously, meaning to disengage both rear shock absorbers rather than attempting to address one side individually. If you attempt to work on one side at a time, you will be contending with the torsion bar in your efforts to lower it sufficiently. The battle becomes simpler if you reverse both simultaneously; likely, compressing the springs will be unnecessary in that manner.
I conducted a brief inquiry and discovered some brackets available for purchase that can subsequently be welded to the vehicle: https://ebay.io/m/KJ4fvG I cannot ascertain whether these specific items are indeed suitable for your vehicle, but it is evident that such products are available; you are not the first to encounter this issue! That connection claims to be rust-resistant, but it may be prudent to apply an appropriate sealant afterward.
Thus, one can only hope it is not yet time for it to decline?
P.S: When undertaking a DIY project, it is advisable to detach both sides simultaneously, meaning to disengage both rear shock absorbers rather than attempting to address one side individually. If you attempt to work on one side at a time, you will be contending with the torsion bar in your efforts to lower it sufficiently. The battle becomes simpler if you reverse both simultaneously; likely, compressing the springs will be unnecessary in that manner.
-
LostintheSea
- Moderator
- Posts: 112
- Joined: Tue Mar 10, 2020 7:30 pm
I appreciate that.Greatly valued 
I have recently placed an order for a pair.
I have a query that perhaps you could elucidate for me:
The rear springs and shocks are distinct components on the mk6, rather than being concentric.
If I eliminate both sides simultaneously, the rear of the body will lack support...
...? Therefore, I must provide support for the body... is my reasoning accurate...?
I have recently placed an order for a pair.
I have a query that perhaps you could elucidate for me:
The rear springs and shocks are distinct components on the mk6, rather than being concentric.
If I eliminate both sides simultaneously, the rear of the body will lack support...
...? Therefore, I must provide support for the body... is my reasoning accurate...?-
ford_fiesta98
- Senior
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Mon Apr 01, 2019 8:45 pm
I must clarify that I have not performed this task on a Fiesta mk6, but I have completed several with a similar suspension setup, and this is my approach.
Elevate the rear support using axle stands and sill protectors at the designated support locations.
Two trolley jacks (bottle jacks should suffice as well) positioned beneath the axle at the shock mount locations, utilizing wood as necessary. Elevate the vehicle to alleviate the pressure on the shock, remove the shock mounting bolt on each side, and descend to decompress the spring on one side. You will likely discover that it does not decrease sufficiently, so adjust the opposite side as well.
What you will subsequently discover is that, even without assistance, the axle will not descend sufficiently due to the front bushes that attach it to the vehicle not twisting adequately, even when both sides are lowered. If you lower it slightly, you may achieve sufficient clearance to extract the spring. If the spring is exceptionally lengthy, reapply the load onto the jacks for support, then utilize spring compressors on the specific spring you are addressing, subsequently lowering and pulling the axle down to facilitate the removal of the now slightly compressed spring. On a Corsa C (is the term "corsa" considered profanity on this forum, haha?!) I believe I successfully removed the spring in this manner without employing spring compressors, but it might indeed be essential to utilize them for this Fiesta. However, reducing the height on both ends is advantageous, as failing to do so results in a struggle against the axle's tendency to rebound while attempting to lower it for spring removal, if you comprehend my point.
If you possess multiple pairs of spring compressors, you may retain the spring in that position; otherwise, you must decompress the spring and subsequently repeat the compression/lowering/pulling procedure on the opposite side. At this juncture, you will lament the decision to purchase an additional pair of spring compressors, haha.
To earn additional points and facilitate the welding process for you or the welder, you might consider removing the entire axle. It appears that one of the brackets associated with the front bush must be removed, as there is insufficient clearance to extract the bolt. It might be simpler to eliminate both brackets and retain them in their current position, unless you prefer to replace the front bushings concurrently (a frequent component to deteriorate on these vehicles).
I trust it is comprehensible and beneficial.
Elevate the rear support using axle stands and sill protectors at the designated support locations.
Two trolley jacks (bottle jacks should suffice as well) positioned beneath the axle at the shock mount locations, utilizing wood as necessary. Elevate the vehicle to alleviate the pressure on the shock, remove the shock mounting bolt on each side, and descend to decompress the spring on one side. You will likely discover that it does not decrease sufficiently, so adjust the opposite side as well.
What you will subsequently discover is that, even without assistance, the axle will not descend sufficiently due to the front bushes that attach it to the vehicle not twisting adequately, even when both sides are lowered. If you lower it slightly, you may achieve sufficient clearance to extract the spring. If the spring is exceptionally lengthy, reapply the load onto the jacks for support, then utilize spring compressors on the specific spring you are addressing, subsequently lowering and pulling the axle down to facilitate the removal of the now slightly compressed spring. On a Corsa C (is the term "corsa" considered profanity on this forum, haha?!) I believe I successfully removed the spring in this manner without employing spring compressors, but it might indeed be essential to utilize them for this Fiesta. However, reducing the height on both ends is advantageous, as failing to do so results in a struggle against the axle's tendency to rebound while attempting to lower it for spring removal, if you comprehend my point.
If you possess multiple pairs of spring compressors, you may retain the spring in that position; otherwise, you must decompress the spring and subsequently repeat the compression/lowering/pulling procedure on the opposite side. At this juncture, you will lament the decision to purchase an additional pair of spring compressors, haha.
To earn additional points and facilitate the welding process for you or the welder, you might consider removing the entire axle. It appears that one of the brackets associated with the front bush must be removed, as there is insufficient clearance to extract the bolt. It might be simpler to eliminate both brackets and retain them in their current position, unless you prefer to replace the front bushings concurrently (a frequent component to deteriorate on these vehicles).
I trust it is comprehensible and beneficial.