Turbo assistance

[n1mrod]

Greetings, everyone,
I own a 2008 Bluetek with 200,000 miles that has been underperforming and need help. The Check Engine Light (CEL) remains on, and the vehicle is entering limp mode. After recycling the key, the vehicle operates properly for some miles until issues reoccur. I had many codes, including a downstream O2 sensor (which I replaced), a 2598-001 EGR positioner fault (which I fixed), and a 2944-004 Glow plug 3 (which I have not yet replaced). Upon replacing the EGR, I began receiving the error code 2355-001, indicating that the EGR air mass is insufficient. Although it no longer enters limp mode, it began to exhibit jerking during acceleration virtually every time I started it, but seemed to settle after operating for a period. The engine's RPMs corresponded with the jerking motion. The fuel efficiency is poor at 20 miles per gallon.

This prompted my suspicion of intake manifold obstruction and swirl flaps.

Yesterday, I removed the intakes for cleaning, as well as to repair the oil cooler and swirl motor, and began to contemplate the acceptability of the turbo. There is no indication of the vanes contacting the edges of the housing, and there is little movement when I try to shift the vanes laterally. Upon acquiring the vehicle, the owner informed me that the Turbo had just been changed, however there is no definitive means to verify this claim. I will begin the clean-up procedure on the intakes, but I would want to gather opinions about the potential malfunction of the turbocharger. I prefer to replace it now rather than in a month, despite the expense of $1300. One of the exhaust nuts on the Turbo fractured during removal. If I retain this one, I must have an extraction.

What are your opinions? Thank you so much!

[Martin_Smith76]

Greetings! Additionally, examine the turbo actuator. Mine was defective, and I replaced it along with a turbo refurbishment while it was removed from the vehicle.

Encountered a similar limp mode problem; serviced the catalytic converters, EGR, replaced sensors, fuel filter, and intake manifold, only to discover that the issue was the turbo actuator.


I trust it will be beneficial!

[n1mrod]

Thank you for your contribution, Martin_Smith76. I replaced the turbo actuator a few years ago, but it is likely that it is defective. I will modify it to ensure accuracy when it is completely disassembled.

In the realm of disappointment, there are undoubtedly those with more insight on this matter; nonetheless, it seems that this forum has insufficient activity. I need assistance in evaluating the condition of the Turbo, since it represents a significant investment if it is really a buy.

[Martin_Smith76]

I trust you will resolve the matter. Inform us of the outcome!

[MercedesMan98]

Prior to replacing the turbo, I would contemplate the following considerations.
Replace the exhaust back pressure sensor, located £60 to the right of the turbo.Alternatively, spray clean the little aperture on its bottom, which may get obstructed with debris.
Insert a 4.7k ohm resistor into the central two terminals of the intake port (swirl flap motor) electrical supply.Refer to Google for information on the OM642 resistor repair. Cost: £2.

A 15 amp fuse in the engine compartment fuse box protects the EGR, intake port motor, back pressure sensor, and turbo. This may result in a malfunction seeming to originate from a different source due to their interconnectedness. Replace the fuse Cost: £1.
Thoroughly clean the turbo actuator's sensor with electrical cleaner and apply a minimal quantity of high-temperature oil to the worm gear.
Apply turbo cleaning spray via the front of the turbocharger.

[n1mrod]

I will replace the backpressure sensor while the assembly is apart.
I opted for a Turbo cartridge repair kit rather than a complete replacement, which is far more cost-effective.
I successfully extracted the damaged bolts from the Turbo without doing any harm.

I have a new swirl flap motor arriving, therefore the resistor is unnecessary at this time.
I have cleaned the intake ports of the cylinder heads and intake manifolds; it was a laborious task.
Upon the arrival of my gasket kit, I will be prepared to reassemble it.

[Martin_Smith76]

Curiously, I experienced limp mode while driving on the highway this morning. I had to stop the vehicle to deactivate and reactivate it. The vehicle exhibits this behavior when I accelerate fully to overtake another automobile, resulting in a complete lack of acceleration thereafter. No check engine light or any issues so far. It is hoped that the technician would promptly identify the problem.

[n1mrod]

I apologize sincerely.
I presume you lack a scanner?

[Martin_Smith76]

It is OK; such occurrences are inevitable. Regrettably, I do not own a scanner.

[Martin_Smith76]

The vehicle was diagnosed today using STAR, and no errors were detected. My technician advised me to continue using the vehicle until the check engine light activates.

By the way, did you resolve yours?